The Cambrian Way
- Donald O'Leary
- Dec 29, 2021
- 8 min read
Updated: Jan 29, 2022
"We can do that easy mate" were my exact words to my friend Karl back in 2018, for years i had an obsession with The Cambrian Way, initially an unofficial long distance trail running from Cardiff to Conwy, and was officially recognised in 2019, it runs over many of the highest and most scenically beautiful areas of Wales. It was pioneered in the 1960s and 1970s by Tony Drake, after decades of opposition from landowners, the BMC, along with local councils and national parks it was left without the support, however Mr Drake later produced a guidebook of the walk, which in time gained some sort of 'cult status' amongst walkers who dreamed of completing the ultimate Welsh adventure, popularity for the trail gained momentum when in the 90s the BBC documented tv presenter Janet Street Porter walking along the Cambrian Way (much to the annoyance to those opposed to the Cambrian Way being recognised)
The main route originally ran for 291 miles (468 km), with approximately 78,025 feet (23,782 m) of ascent using the latest digital measurements from the Ordnance Survey's 'OS Maps' website. Previous estimates were 275 miles (443 km) and 60,795 feet (18,530 m) of ascent using paper maps and counting contours in 2008, and 288 miles (463 km) and 67,100 feet (20,500 m) of ascent using Ordnance Survey 'Getamap' website in 2012. The latest measurements of ascent take into account the extra ascent of undulations between plotted points and are, therefore, considerably greater than previous estimates and probably more accurate, though they are still subject to a margin of error.
Following a number of changes to the route that are incorporated in the latest Cicerone guide, the main route has increased to approximately 479 km (298 miles) with a total ascent of 22,460 m (73,700 ft).
It traverses Wales from Cardiff Castle near the south coast to Conwy Castle on the north coast and is purposely routed over the highest upland and mountainous terrain including the Black Mountains, Central Beacons and Black Mountain (all within the Brecon Beacons National Park), the Cambrian Mountains, Cadair Idris, and Snowdon, the work done by the Ramblers Cymru in marking the trail over recent years and promoting has been brilliant.
Planning the walk started almost a year before, with 11 different OS maps needed and a whole array of kit required, with both of us coming from our hometown, Port Talbot in South Wales we decided to start in Conwy and finish in Cardiff so our friends and families could meet us at the finish line, in the months leading up to the walk we prepared by hiking as much as we could on weekends and plenty of night walks.
With everything in place and our kit packed it was time to hit the road, we set up base in North Wales and got ourselves an early night before setting off from Conwy the next day.
The first day was a shock to the system to say the least, some 26 miles from Conwy to Ogwen Yha, over the main peaks of the Carneddau, stunning but brutal is the most accurate analysis of the first day, we were both carrying all of our gear, Tent, Food, Water along with a whole world of bits and bobs.
Once we reached Ogwen we stayed at the YHA Ogwen, which itself has a long connection with the Cambrian Way, the lady who worked there remembered Tony Drake visiting regurlarly to survey the route, she spoke very fondly of the gentleman, a shower, good feed and sleep was in order.. to say my legs were shaking like a shitting dog would be an understatment, i remember Karl turning to me and saying what the f#%k have you signed us up for.
After a good night's rest we woke to the sound of the rain hammering the window and it suddenly dawned on me I had not checked the weather for the day ahead, with heavy storms and lightning coming in we decided to cut the day in half and just get over the Glyderau and down into Llanberis getting some last minute accomodation,
(the plan was to camp but dont ever mess about with lightning, it's a no brainer) that being said we set off with high spirits and was treated to a cracking morning hike..
The landscape of the Glydau can only be described like being on the moon.
With the weather coming in we made it to our checkpoint safe and sound, with half a day to make up. We had to be up early the next morning and up and at em so to speak.
We left llanberris and headed up to the summit of the tallest mountain in Wales, Snowdon. Again, the rain was being true to form and our brand new shiny waterproofs being tested to the maximum.
We still had to get down into Beddgelert and over the Moelwyn range and into Ffestiniog for our checkpoint that day. One thing that will always stay with me is going down that Watkin Path, stunning and probably the finest way up to the top of the tallest mountain in Wales. It is also one of the toughest, walking down that scree with a heavy load on your back is emotional to say the least.
After a very long and tough 12 hours we finally made it to our checkpoint, our accomodation that night was in Llan Ffestiniog where we stayed in Treks Bunkhouse, a fantastic location if you are exploring the moelwyns or the Rhinogs.
Day four was the longest we had attempted so far, from Ffestiniog to Barmouth, over the notorious Rhinogs mountain range. The Rhinogydd are far less well known than the areas in the north of the Snowdonia national park. Most of the day we had no path to follow and our navigational skills had to be spot on.
It was a long old slog to Barmouth that day, after getting to our checkpoint that evening, we celebrated with a slap up meal, pint and a shower, the locals were brilliant and we had the warmest of welcomes.
Again we woke to the sound of rain hammering against the window, only this time the wind was howling, the forecast had predicted 70 mph winds that day, we had 27 miles to get from Barmouth to Dinas Mawddy over Cadair Idris, we left and set off over Barmouth Bridge with spirits high and head down.
The wind that day was strong and it was a tough old slog to our checkpoint that evening, we decided to book some accomodation after being hammered by the wind and rain for 12 hours, we arrived at our hotel The Bridgands Inn looking like two drowned donkeys, the owner asked what we were doing and once we said we were walking across Wales he immediately upgraded us to the penthouse - which had a bath, a huge four poster bed and an award winning restaurant downstairs, i remember having the most amazing feed that evening.
After setting off the next morning and the weather being kind we set off on day five, we had now left Snowdonia and was now deep into mid Wales.. tiredness was a real issue now as the strain of carrying the weight over the long distances was really starting to show..
We plodded on so to speak and made it to our checkpoint, both keen to set up camp after finding a farm shop and grabbing some local produce to cook up a treat that evening,
Day six saw us set up camp and head for our checkpoint that evening, Dylife, Dylife was once a thriving mining community of more than 1,000 people. At the height of the lead mining industry in the 19th Century, there were four inns, several chapels, a church and a school - which have now nearly all disappeared all except one, Y Star Inn, dating back to the 17th century and is one of the most remote pubs in Wales, surrounded by stunning scenery of the Cambrian Mountains, and only a stone's throw away from Llyn Clywedog, the aptly-named pub was awarded Dark Sky Discovery Site status in 2019, we arrived to an open fire, a pint and the offer from the owner "do you want me to put the sauna on boys?" We looked at each other like we had won the lottery,
We set off on day seven and joined on to the Glyndwrs Way national trail as we headed into the Cambrian Mountains and the highest point that day.. Plumilion fawr, by now our legs were starting to get used to all the hammering day in day out.
We had a long old slog that day, 44 miles altogether and made it to our checkpoint just outside Devils Bridge around 9pm, the campsite was strategically situated opposite a pub where we got some late night refreshment after a long but incredible day, by this point the messages of support from our friends and families was incredible, we kept on smiling at each other because we knew that we was well over half way into doing something very special.
We was now within touching distance of the Brecon Beacons and there was no need for us to use a map, after a looking around Strata florida we set off on day eight and we had accomodation booked in Llandovery that night, having to cross the 'desert of wales' we didnt see a soul all day and day dreamed about ordering seven pizzas each once we arrived at Llandovery that night.
We arrived in Llandovery and got to our accomodation, stuffed full of pizza we were both fast asleep by 9pm, we woke to a fantastic breakfast and excitement in the thought that on day nine we would be entering the Brecon Beacons and going over the incredible Black Mountain Range of the national park, another tough slog was in store but we didnt care, we was getting closer to home
After dropping down into the Swansea Valley we was met by our friend Carl who dropped us off some supplies and kit before we headed onto our campsite that evening high above the clouds on Pen Y fan, a fantasic experience that will stay with me forever, in our minds we were on the final straight, we only had three more days to meet all our families at Cardiff castle on day 12 and we had some serious walking still to do.
We set off on day 10 with high spirits and a full belly, and after a long day of walking we finally made it to our checkpoint just outside Crickhowell, we had just two days left and over 65 miles to cover, day eleven was a tough old day going over the Black Mountains, down into Avergavenny and to our accomodation for the night, it was our last night together on this special adventure so we treated ourself to a curry and an early night, we had 27 miles left to get to Cardiff Castle and to see our families who had all made arrangments to meet us at the finish line, we decided to wake up at 4am and get on the trail early so we could get there in good time, i cant remember being tired that day, when we saw the Cardiff skyline for the first time it was an amazing feeling, the finish line was in sight.
Once we joined the Taff trail at Castell Goch, it was a pleasant walk along the river taff onto cardiff castle. The feeling was incredible, knowing we had just walked across Wales and was about to finish i cant even describe how tall we felt.
We got to Cardiff Castle and were greeted by everybody, a very special moment in mine and Karls lives. Its worth noting that in the 12 days we walked i had lost two and a half stone and you could easily tell the difference.
We also raised over 2000 for Ssafa - A veterans charity that helped me through bad times and really changed my life, if it was not for the skills I had learned in the forces some 20 years before, I'd have never been able to navigate us both across the trail.
A massive thank you to the following people who helped along the way.
Tim Wetter - North Wales Support Driver
Pete's Eats - for the free Breakfast
Graeme Harvey - Barmouth Accomodation.
Treks Bunkhouse - Can find website here
The Brigands Inn - for the room upgrade and the fantastic food, you can find them here
Two Hoots Devils Bridge. The owners were amazing and ive gone back many times since.
Eat Trek & Nakd Wholefoods - Snaks and bars.
Ramblers Cymru - Olie Wicks, the advice guidance and overall work you have put in to get the trail reckognised should not go unoticed.
Carl Cerasolo - Swansea supply drop.
Our sponsors - To everyone thay donated thank you.
YHA cardiff - for accomodating us for the finish, sadly this has since been purchased by Cardiff Council for emergency housing during the Covid 19 pandemic.
For more information on the Cambrian Way itself you can find all the information you need here
The welcoming committee
Absolutely amazing boys
Fair play. Machines💪🏽 I’ll be coming on a hike soon.